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hunting waves between contests |
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Written by KP // Wednesday, 15 April 2009
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Purcho swung into my driveway last week at 5am and picked me up for a day of really fun waves down the coast, haven’t done that in a while… just headed off with some new boards and a backpack and surfed all day long! Set up down on the beach under this little pandanas tree and re-connected with my inner grommet. Stayed in my boardies all day and ate pies… got a rash, felt crusty but was bloody stoked at the end of the day. I love surfing with purch too, he draws such a great line and really reads the wave well… some big backhand gouges went down.
Kirra ... Well what do you say about that place, it was pretty mental! Just gives you that real adrenaline rush even thinking about getting one of those crazy dredging barrels.
I drove up early and it was looking pretty damn good, long clean lines. Got out there and snagged a few good big pits then snapped my 6’2 bailing under a solid set… got a lift in on the ski with luke egan (absolute saviour) bolted back grabbed another craft then broke that ten minutes later!!!!
Ouch. Haven’t done that in a long time…
Anyway I had a breaky break and the next board survived the rest of the day luckily, heres a few shots on my 6’2 before it was a 3’2 Go Back |
